Feds ban Cave Rock climbing

STATELINE -- Calling it a cultural resource worth protecting, the U.S. Forest Service will ban rock climbing at Cave Rock.

The Washoe Tribe considers Cave Rock, a distinctive landmark on Lake Tahoe's eastern shore, to be a sacred site with historical and cultural significance, including religious rituals practiced there until 1965.

Maribeth Gustafson, forest supervisor for the Lake Tahoe Basin, said Thursday her decision to ban climbing was based on guidelines in the forest's plan designed to protect its resources.

The decision is expected to be appealed. If it is not, the ban would take effect Sept. 2.

Climbers called the decision hypocritical, saying their damage to Cave Rock is small compared with a four-lane highway that runs through the massive rock formation.

"The impact of climbing is infinitesimal compared to the impact of the transportation corridor that runs right through the cave," said Eric Perlman, 53, a climber from Truckee. "It's grossly hypocritical on the part of the Forest Service to single out rock climbing as a prohibited activity when in fact rock climbers, by years of effort, have removed garbage, cleaned up graffiti and made it a welcoming destination for people."

Gustafson's decision allows activities such as hiking, stargazing and picnicking, but bans rock climbing because it wasn't a use before 1965.

Washoe shaman Henry Rupert practiced religious rituals at Cave Rock until 1965. The Forest Service is using that time period as a model as to how Cave Rock can be managed successfully.

The Washoe Tribe made the management of Cave Rock an issue in the mid-1990s, asking the Forest Service to better manage the land as rock climbing and bolts it leaves behind increased. Washoe tribal officials couldn't be reached Thursday for comment.

An attorney representing The Access Fund, a nonprofit group in Boulder, Colo., that works to protect climbing areas, says the group will likely appeal the decision.

"I expect so, but I don't make that decision. That will be made by our board," said Paul Minault, regional representative for The Access Fund.

Minault said he met several times with a representative of the Washoe Tribe to discuss the matter but was never able to reach a compromise.

"I think they saw an 88 percent decrease in the number of climbers (in June)," Minault said. "We've told them we'd support a similar thing at Cave Rock, but the Washoe want climbers off there all the time."

The decision means all the bolts, anchors, some graffiti and a rock floor installed in the cave will be removed.