Bundt Basics

he bundt pan isn't just another pretty face among baking dishes. The carefully constructed design conducts heat to the center of the cake, which would otherwise brown on the outside before the inside is cooked through. This makes the pan particularly well-suited to dense batters, such as pound and coffee cakes.

Variations on the bundt pan now range in size from miniature bundtlettes to the classic bundt pan, which accommodates 12 cups of batter, and several sizes in between.

A different-size pan can be substituted for recipes requiring an old-fashioned, 12-cup pan, though this can be an iffy venture. A 12-cup bundt pan is equivalent to a 10-inch angel food, or tube, pan.

Ascertaining doneness always demands a little guesswork. Although the timing varies dramatically, depending on the batter, 12-cup cakes take anywhere from 35 to 60 minutes, Bundtlette recipes from 15 to 35 minutes.

Cook's Illustrated magazine tested eight different brands of nonstick bundt pans. The results, published in "Baking Illustrated" (America's Test Kitchen, 2004), ranked the classic 12-cup Nordic Ware pan the best across all categories save for price (about $29). For best buy, they gave the nod to the Baker's Secret pan (about $109).

Regardless of size, never fill a bundt pan more than two-thirds full.

Although most bundt pans have a nonstick surface, additional measures need to be taken to facilitate cake removal from the pan. Butter each curve and cranny and especially the center cone, then dust with flour, tapping out any excess. Sugar may be substituted for flour, or cocoa powder may used for chocolate cakes. Nonstick sprays may be used instead of butter. However, repeated use of some sprays can cause a gummy residue to form on nonstick surfaces.

Bundt pans with a dark surface, as opposed to a pale gray nonstick surface, require a slightly lower baking temperature. Baking expert Rose Levy Beranbaum suggests reducing the temperature by 25 degrees.

If the cake sticks or cools completely in the pan, return the pan to a 325- or 350-degree oven to rewarm for 3 to 5 minutes or place a bath towel in the sink, run just enough hot water to cover it and place the bottom of the pan on the towel for about 10 seconds.

Tunnel of Fudge Cake

(12 to 14 servings)

There are many variations of the original 1966 Pillsbury Bake-Off recipe. It's easy to understand why. How puddinglike the center is depends on time and temperature, the proportion of sugar to flour and the protein content of the flour.

Pillsbury test kitchens created this version, which is widely available online, including on Nordic Ware's Web site.

For the cake:

31Ú2 sticks (14 ounces) butter, at room temperature, plus more for the pan

13Ú4 cups granulated sugar

6 large eggs

2 cups confectioners' sugar

21Ú4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan

3Ú4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

2 cups (8 ounces) chopped walnuts

For the glaze:

3Ú4 cup confectioners' sugar

1Ú4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

11Ú2 to 3 tablespoons milk

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 12-cup bundt pan. Dust with flour and shake out any excess.

For the cake: In a large bowl using an sugar until light and fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating well after each addition.

Gradually add the confectioners' sugar, beating until combined. Using a spoon, stir in the flour, cocoa and nuts, and mix until combined. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread it evenly.

Bake for 56 to 58 minutes. (Because this cake has a soft center, an ordinary doneness test cannot be used. Accurate oven temperature and baking time are critical. The surface will have a thin crust but will not appear to be done.) Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool for 1 hour. Invert onto a serving plate and set aside to cool completely.

For the glaze: In a small bowl, combine the confectioners' sugar, cocoa and 11Ú2 tablespoons milk. Mix until well blended, adding some of the remaining milk, 1Ú2 tablespoon at a time, if necessary to achieve a spreadable consistency.

Spoon the glaze over the top of the cooled cake, allowing some to run down the sides.

Per serving (based on 14): 604 calories, 10 gm protein, 64 gm carbohydrates, 35 gm fat, 153 mg cholesterol, 16 gm saturated fat, 40 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber.