A little Italy in Minden

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In the back hall of his new restaurant, Minden resident Robert Humphrey has hung photographs of he and his family exploring Italy.

"We take eating trips, picking out places and trying different foods," he said. "My food has ties to all over Italy."

For 20 years, Humphrey worked in law enforcement, most recently as an evidence technician for the South Lake Tahoe Police Department. But it was his insatiable desire for fine Italian cuisine, stemming directly from his Italian heritage, that led him to open Marcello's Ristorante & Bar on Ironwood Drive in Minden.

"This place was Villa san Marcel before, and I liked the bones of it," he said. "I saw its potential, and I knew it would be a challenge, but I like challenges."

On Jan. 1, Humphrey bought the restaurant. He renovated and began booking reservations.

"We've had to turn people away," he said. "I've had the pleasure of going to every table and talking to every guest that's eaten here. They consistently tell me, 'Thanks for opening, the food is incredible and don't change a thing.'"

Humphrey makes the food himself.

"These are family recipes I grew up with," he said. "Everything is homemade. We roll our own pasta, and it's made fresh daily, even or lasagna noodles. Nothing is frozen or comes out of a can."

Humphrey said the lasagna di angela is one of the most popular dishes, lasagna with a mixture of marinara, Italian sausage, grilled eggplant, pesto, parmigiano and bechemel sauce.

Also popular is the Champagne risotto with saffron shrimp, house-seasoned ribeye steak topped with dolce latte gorganzola cheese and one of Humprehy's favorites: pasta putanesca, which originated in the brothels of Naples, and consists of tomato, caper, Kalamata olive, anchovy and red pepper flake sauce.

"We also offer fresh steamed clams, fresh fish, like Chilean sea bass, and daily specials like osso buco," Humphrey said.

Deserts include homemade ice creams, lavendar lemon, fresh-berry sorbert, homemade tiramisu and cream puff pastries with limoncello custard on top dipped in Belgian chocolate.

"We make our own limoncello (lemon liquor) and have a dynamite wine list," Humphrey said.

Marcello's is located at 1799 B Ironwood Drive in Minden, next to Mandarin Gourmet. The restaurant is open Wednesday through Monday. The bar opens at 4:30 p.m. and the dining room opens at 5 p.m. For more information call 783-3211.

n Scott Neuffer can be reacheat sneuffer@recordcourier.com or 782-5121, ext. 217.