When I was a small kid, just after the wheel had been invented and things were only made out of stone, Sunday drives were commonplace. These family events were fun despite the occasional yells, screams and motion sickness.
There's a designated scenic highway right here in Alpine County just waiting for a Sunday drive, preferably on a weekday when there's less traffic. For people who can't or don't want to explore the wilderness on foot this drive is the perfect way to see and touch the back country.
I'm talking about Highway 4 of course, the route over Ebbetts Pass.
Start by driving south from Markleeville on Highway 89. At Monitor Junction, where 89 turns left to go over the pass of the same name, click your trip meter to zero (or write down the odometer reading) and continue south. This is where Highway 4 begins.
At .8 mile see Forest Road 098 on the left. Pull over on the right and explore the riverbank of the East Fork of the Carson River. An energetic walk up FR 098 for about an hour will get you to the top of Silver Hill with its dry sagebrush, mountain mahogany and Jeffrey pine-covered slopes.
At 2.5 miles is Centerville Flat, a historic mining support area good for longer strolls. Note the confluence of the East Fork and Silver Creek, new restroom and primitive camping areas. This and many of the sites you'll visit on this trip have archeological value and are protected under the Antiquities Act. That means, with the exception of garbage, don't collect or disturb anything. Wolf Creek Road goes south at this point.
At 4.0 miles gaze at Chalmers Mansion and the brick smelter out front that processed silver ore. Learn about Lord Chalmers, an Englishman, at the Alpine County Museum on Webster Street in Markleeville.
At 4.8 miles pass Scossa brothers' cow camp, a working operation that runs cattle into the summer high country.
At 5.9 miles, Silver Mountain City is on the left. In 1866 some 3,000 people lived here says the sign but recent studies by local historians Karen and Rick Dustman suggest that this figure may be high. This was the county seat for a time but barely 10 years later, demonetization of silver and new strikes at Bodie emptied this flat quickly. Take time to explore here on foot, note the remains of the old jail and sizable depressions indicating former structures.
At 7.4 miles on the right is Forest Road 112, known locally as the wagon road. It goes right up about a mile, splits, with the right fork going to an old mine in Pennsylvania Canyon (about an hour walk) and the left fork climbing to merge back with Highway 4 in a little more than three miles.
At 7.7 miles pass Silver Creek campground on both sides as the highway climbs steeply on long switchbacks.
At 9.1 miles, on Cadillac Curve, carefully pull left into the Nobel Canyon parking area. Take a stroll here. The cross canyon views toward Silver Peak are awesome and it's an easy mile walk to a crossing of Nobel Creek. Energetic hikers can continue another four miles to Nobel Lake, about two hours each way. Or just look over the cliffs and note the flattened pieces of a late '40s Caddy below.
Continue uphill through several S-turns along a narrow ledge that avalanches easily in winter. Note how the rock has changed from granitic to volcanic and back to granitic again. Pass a private cabin on the left and at 10.7 miles park at a wide spot on the right. The upper terminus of FR 112 is just downhill.
Back on Highway 4, continue with unseen Kinney Creek in the gully to the left. Admire the volcanic plugs and contrast them with the granitic rock closer to the road. Note too that juniper, western white pine and hemlock have largely replaced the Jeffrey pine forest found lower.
At 12.5 miles, Kinney Reservoir on the right, a nice place for a stroll, fishing or walk a mile north to Lower Kinney Lake.
At 13.2 miles, on the left is the Pacific Crest Trail parking. Take an easy half-mile walk southbound to a ridge with astounding views or continue four more moderately strenuous miles to Nobel Lake. Terrific seasonal flower displays even adjacent to the parking lot. A moderate northbound hike brings you to scenic Upper Kinney Lake.
At 13.6 miles is Ebbetts Pass. Carefully pull into a wide spot, get out, read the signs. Walk the easy dirt road northbound for some great views to the southwest. Up the trail and over the saddle between the volcanic plugs lies tiny Dorothy Lake, well worth the short walk with its occasional uneven footing.
Retrace your route back to Markleeville or continue to Bear Valley. On the drive back, to make sure you have some brakes left for Cadillac Curve, select a lower gear and use engine braking as much as possible. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or your mechanic if you're unsure how this works.
