Winter injury to trees and shrubs can be a problem, particularly after storms. Minimize potential damage with a few winterization practices. To reduce ice and snow problems, selectively prune long, top-heavy, crossing or weak branches.
Upright evergreens, yews and junipers spread and often break under heavy, wet snow. To protect them, wrap the plant up with rope - tying the branches up. During heavy snowstorms, remove excess snow by carefully sweeping it from drooping boughs with a soft broom. Although you might think that sweeping down makes more sense, always brush upwards from underneath towards the tips of the branches. This will reduce branch breakage.
Plowing or shoveling snow can damage plants. If your driveway is plowed with a snowplow, avoid injury to nearby plants by installing guide stakes to show the operator the exact route. If you blow your own driveway, try to aim the snow chute away from plants. Do not throw snow onto plants where it can crush or break branches.
Salt used to melt snow and ice from pavements can damage roots and cause burnt, discolored and stunted leaves. Do not sweep salt-saturated snow or ice onto plants or apply salts to pavement near trees and shrubs. Either the salt will burn foliage or leach into the soil, injuring plant roots. Instead of salt, use sand or kitty litter to prevent slips and falls.
Some winter damage to plants is due to a lack of water. This occurs when soils freeze the entire root zone and precipitation cannot penetrate the soil. Roots of new transplants and plants with shallow root systems often dry out and die during the dry, cold weather. Evergreen plants are especially susceptible to winter damage because their leaves continue to lose moisture during the winter. Plants that have been in the ground less than a year may need watering every two to three weeks if there has been no precipitation. Established plants generally need watering every three to four weeks. Water when the ground will absorb water and air temperatures are above freezing.
Winter sun can cause the bark of plants to break dormancy, leaving the tissue vulnerable to injury. When the warming is followed by freezing nights, sunscald can occur in the form of discolored, shrunken or cracked bark. Wrap trees with cardboard, burlap, commercial wraps or paint with white latex. Wrap from the bottom up and overlap each strip at least one-third of its width. Fasten at the top with waterproof tape and remove the wrap in the spring when new leaves emerge.
Protect your plants this winter.
• JoAnne Skelly is the Carson City/Storey County Extension educator for University of Nevada Cooperative Extension and may be reached at skellyj@unce.unr.edu or 887-2252.
