San Marino: Ancient land of liberty

When you have two months free time in Italy plus a supercharged Land Rover at your disposal, you look for day trip destinations. The landlocked Republic of San Marino (fifth smallest country in the world) is just up the road so off we go. Situated just six miles from the shores of the Adriatic, San Marino is an anachronism. Founded in 301 AD, it is the world’s oldest democracy. Its most memorable attraction is Mt. Titano (2,477 feet). A country of 33,000 people, just 4,000 reside in the capitol city atop Mt. Titano.

When you cross the border from Italy into San Remo, there are few differences. Five minutes later, at the base of Mt. Titano, you are greeted by neighborhoods of ancient stone block buildings. Here an aerial tramway greets you and in minutes you glide quietly into antiquity. As you step out, the view is awesome (in the true sense of the word). You immediately see progress has been reversing itself for a long, long time. Cobble stone streets, twisting paths, statues, fountains, gardens and an abundance of edifices from a lost age are piled one on top of the other. It’s mid-December and we’re blessed with ghostly solitude. Most of the year, San Marino’s calendar is filled with festivals, conventions, sporting and concerts events. Tourism and banking are San Marino’s main source of income. Maintaining life as it was is a fiercely perpetuated goal.

During the busy season, regiments of soldiers in elaborate uniforms, wearing plumed hats and swords dangling at their sides, march proudly past damsels in traditional gowns. How can you not take pride in the world’s only Cross Bow Corps? For centuries enemies have stormed the mountain sides of Mt. Titano and have been protected my three battle towers. It’s an honor to portray one of these many historical characters at one of the events. Alongside the mountain, roads parallel each other and this is where ancient block-wall buildings (freshened by today’s modern improvements) house today’s population. This is the only area cars and trucks are permitted.

It's a top-coat, wintry day so we pop inside at every opportunity for the warmth.

We visit several theatres an auditorium, chapels, galleries, several libraries and a museum. There are no guides, docents or orators. All of the pageantry information I glean from a 10,000 lire book I purchase and I soon come to know what San Marino is up to. This tiny land locked country has chosen to save the best of the past for enjoyment of todays populous. Just as the Pope in the Vatican has his Swiss Guards, so San Marino has its sword rattling soldiers and flag twirling artists. San Marino is decidedly out of step with today’s modern-day world and the result is deliberately entertaining.

As dusk descends, and the sun descends over the Apennies Mountains we take our leave. What a joy enhancing trip.

Ron Walker can be reached at walkover@gmx.com